Appliances connected and certified, leaks found and made safe, and legacy runs measured against what you are actually asking them to deliver. Compliance certificate every job.
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Most gas work is straightforward: connect the appliance, test it, certify it. That is the bulk of what we do here too.
What catches people out in Ryde is sizing. Gas pipework is sized for a particular load, and the runs in these postwar houses were sized for what the house asked of them when it was built. A small cooktop, maybe a heater.
Then a six-burner cooktop goes in, and a continuous flow hot water unit, and a heater, all onto the original line. Together they can want considerably more than it was ever built to deliver.
The symptom is not dramatic, which is the trouble. Everything lights and nothing performs. People replace a perfectly good appliance chasing it. Measuring the working pressure with everything running takes minutes and answers it properly.
No switches, no power points, no phone indoors. Open what you pass on the way out, turn it off at the meter if you safely can, then ring us from outside.
Open the house up, get everybody outside, and touch nothing electrical on the way past. Ring from outdoors.
Turn the gas off at the meter if you can reach it safely. If it sits behind the smell, leave it and get out.
A licensed gas fitter answers when you ring us, and where the network's emergency crew is the right first call we will say so.
Gas runs are sized for the appliances they were installed to feed. In a house of this era that was typically a cooktop and perhaps a wall heater, and not much else.
The pipe has not changed since. What people want to connect to it has changed a great deal.
So the question on any new appliance here is not whether it can be connected. It is whether the existing run can carry it alongside everything else.
There is no alarm and nothing fails outright. Appliances light, then underperform when something else runs, and everybody blames the appliance.
A burner that drops off whenever the hot water fires, a cooktop that never quite gets there, a heater that struggles on the coldest nights.
None of it stops anybody using the house, which is exactly why it goes undiagnosed for years.
Continuous flow hot water units are among the hungriest gas appliances in a domestic setting, and they draw heavily the moment somebody opens a tap.
Adding one to a run sized for a cooktop is the most common way a legacy installation gets pushed past what it can carry.
So on this housing that particular upgrade is worth checking properly rather than assuming, and the check happens before anything is ordered.
We measure working pressure at the appliance with everything running, because that is the condition the installation actually has to cope with.
A static reading with nothing on tells you very little. The drop only appears when the system is being asked to deliver.
That is the difference between a real assessment and a quick look, and it is worth asking which one a quote includes.
A granny flat with its own cooking and hot water is a substantial addition to a supply that was sized for one household in 1960.
That calculation is worth doing at the design stage rather than after the build, because upgrading a run afterwards is considerably more disruptive.
It is the same arithmetic as the drainage page, applied to a different service.
Every outdoor gas appliance has required clearances to combustible material, and a flue terminal has required distances from windows, doors and vents.
On a postwar block with seventy years of planting, a shrub thickening over several seasons is the most common non-fault we find.
The fix is usually secateurs and ten minutes, which is the reason to raise it rather than the reason to leave it.
Certifying a new appliance on a line losing pressure elsewhere achieves nothing, so the existing installation gets tested as part of connecting anything new.
On sixty-year-old pipework that has been extended by several owners, that occasionally finds something.
When it does we tell you before doing the work rather than after.
Because the parts that matter are invisible once it is finished. Sizing, pressure testing, clearances, flueing and ventilation all get covered up on the day.
A working appliance tells you the gas got there. It tells you nothing about the diameter of the pipe, whether the line held pressure, or where the flue ends up.
The certificate exists to record exactly those things, which is why it is worth keeping and worth chasing if you never got one.
A Certificate of Compliance is legally required for gas work in NSW, and it records who did the work, that they held a licence, and that it met the standard on the day.
Keep it with the property papers. It is what an insurer asks for after an incident and what a conveyancer asks for at sale.
On a house where the gas has been extended by several owners, it is the only part of that history you can rely on.
Fixed price agreed before we start. These are indicative 2026 ranges. The Certificate of Compliance is included on every gas job and is never charged as an extra.
Any hour. Isolated and made safe first, then diagnosed properly.
Cooktop, oven, heater or bayonet onto an existing point, tested and certified.
Priced on length and what the route has to get through.
Under real load. Worth doing before buying any significant appliance.
On every gas job we complete. Legally required, and never an add-on here.
On a suspected leak the supply is isolated first. Diagnosis comes after the property is safe, never before.
Working pressure measured at the appliance with everything running, because that is the condition that actually matters.
The appliance connected, or the run brought up to what the house now asks of it, to the Australian Standards.
Tested again on completion and your Certificate of Compliance issued on the spot.
Get everyone outside, avoid anything that could spark, and ring us from outdoors. A licensed gas fitter answers at any hour and we treat it as urgent.
Call 1300 381 569Stop reading and act. Do not touch a light switch, a power point or anything that could spark, and do not use a phone inside the building. Open doors and windows on the way out, turn the gas off at the meter if you can reach it safely, get everyone outside, and ring from outdoors. We answer 24 hours. A gas smell is the one plumbing problem where waiting until morning is never the right call.
Frequently it is not. It is the run feeding it. Gas pipework is sized for a particular load, and the runs in a postwar Ryde house were sized for what that house asked in about 1960: a small cooktop and perhaps a heater. A modern six-burner cooktop, a continuous flow hot water unit and a heater all on the original line can add up to considerably more than it was ever meant to deliver. Everything works, nothing performs, and people replace a perfectly good appliance trying to fix it.
We measure the working pressure at the appliance with everything running, which is the condition that actually matters. A run can look fine with one burner on and fall away the moment the hot water unit fires at the same time. That test takes minutes and it settles the question properly, which is a great deal cheaper than replacing an appliance that was never the problem.
Usually, and it is often the better spend. Depending on the route it may mean a larger diameter line from the meter, or a separate run to the appliance that needs the most. We price it against what you were about to spend on a new appliance so you can see the comparison honestly. Sometimes the answer genuinely is a smaller appliance, and we will say so.
Yes, and it is worth doing before you buy rather than after. Continuous flow units are among the hungriest gas appliances in a domestic property, because they heat water on demand instead of slowly. Bolting one onto a legacy run that is already feeding a cooktop and a heater is the single most common way people end up with an installation that disappoints. We check the supply first and tell you plainly whether the run will carry it.
Always, on every gas job, without having to ask. A Certificate of Compliance is a legal requirement for gas work in NSW and it is your evidence the installation was done under licence and tested afterwards. Keep it. Insurers ask for it and so does anyone buying the house. If a gas fitter does not hand you one, that tells you something important about the work.
A leak test and make-safe runs $200 to $450. Connecting an appliance to an existing point is $250 to $550. A new or upgraded run is $450 to $1,200 depending on length and what it has to get through. A supply and pressure check is $180 to $350 and is worth doing before buying any significant appliance. The compliance certificate is included on every gas job, never an extra.
Tell us what the appliance is and what else runs on the same supply. If you can smell gas, ring rather than filling in a form.
Fixed price agreed first, tested under real load, and a Certificate of Compliance in your hand before we leave.
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